Tuesday, July 29, 2008

28th July

40-minutes later and I am in Sri Lanka. What a beautiful lush green island surrounded by the Indian Ocean. Straight away we were picked up, taken to lunch and then off to the Slimline garment factory that makes underwear for shops like Victoria’s Secret, Marks and Spencer (UK) GAP and many other high profile shops. It was not as I expected and they really did a great job of providing support and extra activities for the young lady workers. I mean travel and food daily, bonus payments for production targets, a gym and sports field, and a great clean and safe environment. Typically, these girls only stay at the factory until they earn enough for a dowry or to start college. I am pleased that the owners value their workers and treat them accordingly. I am extremely happy that their customers also are willing to pay a little extra so this can happen, too.

We then traveled 4 hours North to Hotel Heritance in Kandallama. This is an incredible place reported to be the best in Sri Lanka. It is 100% eco friendly and it was built into a rock. We are looking forward to seeing it in day light so we can appreciate it fully. It has 3 swimming pools and amazing food. This is indeed a bonus. We will travel to sites of interest from here including tomorrow when we visit the place where Buddhism started. We have an incredible gentleman joining us and he will instruct us at the site.

I just read a sign on the window which says “Do not feed the monkeys!!” This is exciting as long as I am inside and they are out.

Signing off and collapsing in bed at 11:00pm as we have another early star tomorrow.
Sunday 27th

The food in India is incredible. I just love the variety of fruit at every meal. Today I had Jack fruit and Star fruit. Of course the mango is their national fruit and they are so sweet.

We had three presentations today at the Center for Development studies and then it was off for a back water canoe ride and then to Kovalam beach. What fun! Did I also mention this hotel is small bungalows spread out around the main reception and they all have ocean view and a hammock in our own private porch area. I think this is our down time after 4 hectic weeks of academics. You should have seen the waves on the Arabian Sea as it is monsoon season. Several of the girls went in swimming despite the red warning flag. I decided to wet my feet and hold tight onto my umbrella. I got a lot of teasing as they said I looked soooooo English!!

Tonight we had our farewell to India dinner. Lots of food, great company and even some dancing. Well it is off to Sri Lanka tomorrow. I am so excited to get our intinerary tomorrow. I know we visit a garment factory and we will go to a tiger refuge, I cannot believe how lucky I am. Signing off for sleep now. Goodnight.


Saturday 26th July

Bangalore is unusually quiet as people are keeping off the streets. Today another huge series of bomb blasts have been experienced further north. India is on full alert. We are expecting high security when we leave tomorrow. We, however, visited the Venkatppa Art Gallery and a huge monolith entitled Bull Temple. On the evening we had our home stays and it was incredible. The people here are truly so pleasant and we were lucky as our hostess had been on a Fulbright exchange as a teacher in Yosemite. She had only 6 students in her class. This school educates all of the children of the park workers. It was great to experienceanother typical Indian family meal and home.

Friday evening 7/26/08

Diane, Mary, Corinsa, Cally and I were collected at our hotels and taken by auto rickshaw to meet Gorgon’s family in laws. The monsoon season is here and it came full blast as we were trying to negotiate rush hour traffic which was already spooked by the bombings. By the time we arrived, I was absolutely soaked and I was wearing my new Indian traditional outfit as I sat on the windward side. It reminded me of the joke, “Did you just come by bicycle?” Well I had! We met them at their sari shop and of course the girls had to try and buy first. It was fun and the shop looked like a tornado had hit it by the time they had finished.

We went to their house and met the mother and grandmother. What charming people. Indians insist on feeding guests first then they will sit down and eat when they are done. They had a house maid called Money who had lived with them since age 10. Her father was unable to feed Money and her sister so he brought them to the city and thankfully Money got a great home. Each year the family give her gold which she will use for her dowry when she marries. She is only 16 and they educate her at home until she has enough English to go to school. They think this will be the year she is accepted. You see she is from the country and children have to have a certain command of English before they are accepted in school. We had great food and chat and an open invitation to visit anytime we want. The sister and brother in law fund an NGO school further up north as well a working full time at an investment company. How neat would it be to volunteer in their school. The streets were deserted when we left this warm family home. The rain had now stopped and it was back to the hotel to pack ready to leave again for the final leg of our travels in India.
Friday July 25th

We are now in Bangalore. The last few days have been a frenzy of school visits, dance exhibitions and a little bit of curriculum shopping.

Last night after our arrival we were introduced to a wonderful troup of Yakshagana dancers and musicians who portrayed part of the epic Ramayana through their arts. This is a classical art from that combines dance and dialogue tell a story. It was very vibrant and intriguing and I the dancers practice at least 4 hours daily to keep fit and master their performance. One young man was only 12 years old and he had been practicing since the age of 4.

Later that evening a group of us went out to shop and I purchased 2 traditional outfits. I will wear one tonight as we are going to visit the family of the fiancée of our tour guide, Gorgon. This will be a great experience for the five of us and we are excited. Now I have reviewed all of the etiquette about eating and greeting so I am culturally correct.

This morning we visited a private Academy of Creative Teaching. What an extremely interesting concept. They offer teacher training to schools as the common belief here is that the Bachelor of Education required to teach does not incorporate enough hands-on teaching or skills base. They also act as an accreditation agency for schools and they have just opened up an international school in an adjacent building. We had some staff development on mathematical thinking and met a professor who is academically brilliant and can answer questions from up to 100 people in the same order as they were received. His method was attributing values to actions in order to remember them. I think that was it!! The students performed a small skit on one of the Indian fables and it was marvelous. This will be a part of my curriculum too for my class next year especially as we have the stage.

On a negative note - today we have had several bomb blasts in Bangalore. Don’t worry, Ella is safe and sound. Our activities have been cancelled and everyone is feeling a little antsy as we have to stay in the hotel. On a typically positive note, tomorrow we are going to start with dessert first then salad for lunch as the food is fantastic!!

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Hot and steamy

A different school

Tuesday July 22, 2008

Well we are now over half way into our travels. Today we visited an “elite” school called The Cathedral and John Connor School. The fees for this school are about 14000 rupees from k to 12. It is certainly the bet school we have seen so far. I made contacts with two teachers. One for Indian pen pals for next year, and the other for teaching students who speak English as a second language. However, she teaches Hindi as a second language! We are going to exchange strategies so we can ensure we reach these children and make their education successful. They were in the middle of preparing for this Year 10 exam that everyone fears so I went over to the primary school. They have about 40 :1 ratio with no aides. The children were excited about my visit and shared many of their favorite book titles and they were very similar to our classroom; Captain Underpants was a BIG favorite.

Later in the afternoon we had free choice so three of us visited the home industries that we were unsuccessful with earlier in the week. I bought three children’s outfits for our reader’s theaters from India. No bargaining here and you could peruse with leisure which is my type of shopping.

In the evening we had a yoga class which was great. We learned about how the institute started and their techniques and then we had a lesson. The voice of the instructor was so smooth that one of the part fell asleep at the beginning when we were getting in touch with our bodies and he did not wake up till near the end of the session. I know I have to get into yoga more when I return as the stretching and peacefulness was super and I slept so well last night. It was late when we returned so we grabbed room service and went to Cally’s room to watch an Indian movie about the street children of Bombay (Mumbaii now.) It was very sad but all too true.

Mumbai is definitely the most cosmopolitan city we have visited and it feels pretty safe although I would not want to go out and about by myself at night. We leave tomorrow for Bengaluru. We have three days there and two in Thiiruvananthapuram ( meaning the abode of the sacred snake god Anantha – I hope there are not lots of snakes there!!!) which is the very southern tip of India and then it is off to Sri Lanka. I am so excited about that. I hope you are all enjoying your summer too. Signing off….

School visit

Muktangan NGO and Municipal School

One lady, Elizabeth Mehta, had a vision that she could use her 40 years of teaching experience to train 6 women from the lowest socio economic class and have them in turn educate preschool children from their own area. This vision has developed now into Muktangan School which educates children up to grade 5 and has plans to add a grade yearly up to grade 10. Three teachers share a classroom and each has from 8 to 15 students in a group. The teachers get one hour a day with a mentor teacher to plan the following lessons and discuss the needs of their students. These teachers now have a career, the children from these slum areas are getting a great education, and Liz Mehta is seeing her vision being surpassed. I want to tell you more about this school and share a video we all watched. The message here is if you believe in can happen then with hard work and a positive attitude then it probably will.

We spent all day at this school and it is high up on my list of best days in India. We especially enjoyed the singing and dancing in the pre K classes. Wait to you see the video of their British Indian accents and their own slant on singing popular songs like Hokey Pokey. We have another school visit tomorrow to an “elite” school so the comparisons will be interesting.

Karen and I decided to go and visit some home industries this evening where local people make and sell their wares. However, the place the taxi driver took us was not what we intended and we were looking at jewelry around $4000 and silk scarves for not much less! We hailed a taxi and were then taken to the wrong “Taj” hotel and had to get another one back to where we were staying. We have learned in India that people will pretend to know the way when you ask and they will direct you anyway. So far I have taken 3 taxis and never yet got to where I was intending☺

Mumbai

Sunday July 20

We had a great tour of the city by our awesome tour guide Parvene who was very knowledgeable and pleasant. We observed some very British architecture and visited the Victoria Terminus Railway Station. On pillars at the entrance was a lion depicting Britain and a tiger for India. The station could have been Paddington Station in London.

We visited the beautiful campus of Mumbai University. What a pleasure it must be to study here.

Parvene, whose religious affiliation is Parsi, a group of people who left Persia when it was invaded by Arabs, took us to where her people took their dead. This land is prime real estate on the top of a hill and it houses 4 towers where the dead are placed for the vultures to come and eat them. They believe it is the last special thing they can do. However, now there are no vultures due to them eating animals that had DDT, other birds such as hawks do the deed as well as the people scattering limestone to help the bodies deteriorate. Well it does save on burial costs!

After a brief visit to the Prince of Wales Museum to see my relatives (as Jill Ji calls them,) several of us embarked upon a boat to Elphanta Island to see the caves housing huge sculptures relating to the Hindu gods. We really enjoyed the climb up to the caves but it was sweltering hot as usual and we must have lost pounds in perspiration. On our return to the mainland, however, we were sat on the wrong side of the boat and got splashed many times much to the amusement of the other visitors.

I am always amazed how important education is to the Indian culture. We met a young man who had just returned from Russia where he is studying to be a doctor. People will travel all over the world if the scholarship is a good one. Nearly all of the adults we have met have shared with us how much they worry at 10th grade due to the BIG test they take here to qualify them for advanced level and entry test to college in 12th grade. It is so hard to get into universities and many students go to school then take 2 – 3 hours tutoring in an evening just to give them an edge.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Photos to come later as the internet is SLOW!!!!!!!!

Friday July 18th

We all had a lazy morning as the pace is catching up on us. Later that day we went to Swabhumi, a cultural center which is focusing on preserving the ancient heritage of this country. Not too much there I am afraid although we had been told there was lots to buy. Maybe I am just too picky and not a shopper.

On our last evening in Kolkata we visited the neighborhood of Dr Mulick and had a very nice dinner at his house. We visited both Hndu and Muslim areas and temples and then a Catholic school called St. Aloysius. As all 16 of us paraded through the streets the neighborhood stood and watched and smiled. The people in India are just so incredibly friendly. We also met lots of people in the apartment block during dinner and had a great view from the roof tops of the block. The hospitality is so great and we were indebted to Dr Mullick for this taste of real Indian home-life.

Saturday July 19, 2008
We are staying at the Taj President in Mumbai. We checked in and immediately went out to see the home of Mahatma Gandhi when he was in Mumbai and it is also a museum now. We watched a 30 minute video of his life but the highlight for me was to meet the daughter of his second son, in other words, Gandhi’s granddaughter. It was so ironic that she was visiting today and came in to speak to us as I had met his other granddaughter, the daughter of his third son when I was in Durban, South Africa. She gave us an insight into her life with her grandfather and she shared that he always had time for his grandchildren even though he was so busy. He was also meticulous about the length of his white robe he wore as it had to be just above his knees. She told us that when Martin Luther King visited Gandhi at this home, he decided to stay as he felt a complete peace so they had to find him a bed for the night. She was a very gracious lady and I enjoyed listening to her very much.

I can tell you that Mumbai is very cosmopolitan and right beside the Arabian Sea. There are no cows here on the road although I did see one being led on a rope. There is not a lot of litter either, thank goodness. We will be here for 5 nights so I will sign off now and get some sleep.

Kolkata

We leave Kolkata in the morning and I can hardly believe it. It has been action packed as usual. The highlight for me was spending time at a rural Muslim minority school , Sishu Bikash Academy, which was only one hour from the border with Bangladesh. The humidity was so intense there and several of us were very dehydrated. As I stood teaching in the classrooms I could not help but wonder why none of the children seemed bothered by the heat yet I was perspiring profusely to the point I thought I was going to melt! The students all ran to the bus as we pulled up outside and were so excited and keen to show us what they had learned. I spent time in an English classroom and they were reading the Bremen Town Musicians. I knew this book from my third grade class so I was able to have a conversation about the content. Two boys volunteered to read aloud for me and they did a great job. The children asked for my autograph and I felt like a rock star!!

I also visited a social studies class and did a mini lesson on USA and in particular, San Diego. The teacher asked me to tell them about the history of the USA but I did not think I had time☺ I decided to do an overview of California and its geographical position. Unlike the school in Varanasi, no one knew about Mickey Mouse. They did get the concept of where the USA was in the world by a super map I drew on the blackboard. However, I felt embarrassed as I kept breaking the new chalk with my heavy handedness.

We also walked around the village, guided by the principal and Dr Sunrit Mulllick and found that everyone was really happy and greeted us well. They obviously respected the principal of the school too. We came across a girl’s school and they were fantastic. They asked me to go into their classroom and I showed them my San Diego book and photos of my family on my laptop. They loved this a lot and I was sad to leave them. I promised to send them photos by mail that I took while I was there.

The time went too quickly and the guide had to come in to the school and get me as everyone was on the bus ready to leave and I was still having fun inside. On our return we observed the worst slums we have seen so far. The government is pushing these slums out into the suburbs of town. In the USA the suburbs are the place to live but not here!

Later that day we visited Victoria Monument and St Paul’s Cathedral which were very British in their architecture. They had a great historical timeline which helped cement some of the dates in place. What a great day!

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Mother Teresa

Kolkata



The hotel is beautiful. Kolkata is really westernized compared to where we have ben so far. Ella loves it here. Can you find her in the photos?

We went to see the Victoria Memorial as in Queen Victoria the former commonwealth ruler. WE had a presentation and the man kept calling the English "Little Brits!" I could not help but tell him that I was one of them at the end of the lecture:-)

Mother Teresa's building was very emotional. What a tiny lady with such a huge vision and heart. The photos do not do it justice but we could only photograph in certain areas.

Today is Wednesday and we are going to take a walking tour of Kolkata. It has been raining hard and it gets pretty muddy but it is also fun.

Thankfully my blog is up and running again.

More later.

My Crazy Daughter

This s what Justine is doing while I am in India. AND she told me to be careful!! I guess she is my daughter so what can we expect.

Varanasi to Kolkata by overnight train


Varanasi to Kolkata by overnight train.


The evening reception was excellent. The sitar and tabla drum lulled me into having one of the best night’s sleep of the trip. I met another Fulbright scholar and his wife who are studying in Varnasi for 9 months. They are living with a family in the city and it was very interesting to hear about the day to day life of a family. I had no idea that every day for 4 hours they have power cuts during the time when business need the power. Families also only eat two meals a day so that took some getting used to also.

On Monday, July 4 we visited the prestigious Banaras Hindu University at the Malviya Center for Peace Research. We heard some interesting insights into the role of women and the difficulties experienced to advance through the ranks of education. We also visited the art museum on site and enjoyed viewing ancient relics – one being a crystal which was from100 BC and some magnificent miniature paintings. The rest of the afternoon was down time to prepare for our overnight trip to Kolkata. We had an incredible downpour and it was fascinating to see how quickly everywhere floods and how traffic stops. These monsoon conditions really cause turmoil and people plough through mud and water and just continue their life.

We now all definitely know that we brought too much luggage. We were allowed 2 x 50 pound bags from the states but only 1 bag here in India. Getting all of this on the train and trying to fit it under the bunk beds was nigh on impossible but our wonderful guide and USEFI representative were incredible.

One fact that I have not shared yet is that they have wild peacocks everywhere in India. The other fact while on the subject is that men just peeeeeee everywhere and continuously. We counted 21 and we had not even left Varanasi. We do not understand it and I know it is gross but the hygiene mentality is not here at all. Put that together with the cow poop and the litter just dumped everywhere and it is no wonder typhoid and hepatitis is rife.

Back to the train…….. I got the middle bunk of three and we were in a carriage with many others. I slept pretty well until I realized I had to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night. It was easy walking the corridor as I could see the light at the end of the corridor but when I returned it was hard to see which was my bed and I had to gingerly feel to see if there was a body on the middle bunk or a space. One mistake later, I snuggled back into bed and awoke at 6:00am ready to spend another day.

We are staying at the Hotel Oberoi Grand in Kolkata and it is magnificent. We had the morning free and I bathed and relaxed while catching up on my blog. I am off to lunch now and then to a City Tour to acclimate us. We are also going to see Missionaries of Charity which is Mother Teresa’s charity. More to come later. I hope you are enjoying my travels as much as I am. Miss you all and please excuse any typos as time rushes by and internet is extremely expensive in the hotels but I do not want to sit in the Internet Cafes. xox

Back streets of Varanasi and the ritual bathing in Ganges


Photos


Here are some more photos of my visit to the village.

Saturday, July 12, 2008


Sensory Overload



Wow. It has been an intensely emotional 2 days. I have had to do a lot of contemplating to even decide what I wanted to share at this moment. I guess I am approaching sensory overload and it has to be experienced to be believed.

Yesterday, Saturday we went to visit a school. Yes, children do go to school Saturday but only the older ones. I visited a 6th grade class and they were playing Chinese whispers.. I gave the whisper California and that opened up some great conversations about my state. They were very interested and all knew about Disney. This school is moving to a non grade system and focuses on the whole child and not just pushing on academics. I interviews several students and they all agreed that they learned better this way. I loved the philosophy and we have been invited to go back and teach there for a period of time. Hmmmmmmmmmm. Said she thinking!

Later that day, a group of us went to a rural village to experience the real culture. It was fantastic. WE visited the school, the building were all of the laws were made, we met the leader who was a former MP (member of parliament), went to a pickle factory, visited the people in their homes, watched sari material being woven, and got followed all afternoon by a group of interested children. In short, we had a true experience. So far this was my most favorite day.


The evening turned out to be one of the scariest adventures and I will not go into too much detail, but basically a small group of seven of us took rickshaws into town to the banks of the Ganges to see the cremation ceremony for the Hindu religion. The burn the bodies after first washing them in the Ganges to wash away the impurities and ready them for a new life. They then remove all knots from clothing and the burial shroud and they are placed on a pyre (wood fire) and set alight, or cremated. Their skull is opened first so they remain fully open and this is done by the oldest member of the family. The family sit around as this is happening however, women are not allowed incase they cry as this is not a sad occasion. Family members shave their heads completely when someone dies and if their father is still dead, they shave moustaches too. The cost for this is 600Rupees where an organized cremation is 5 times that. The man who owns the cremation parlor is actually from the lowest caste but it is said that he got (his ancestors) got the first fire from Lord Vishnu so even the kind has to bow down to him and ask for fire. He is very rich! The burning ceremonies go on all day and ever day. People bring their dead to Varanasi for this purpose or they come here to just die. When we entered the observation tower we actually walked through these people who were awaiting their freedom to their next life. I was emotionally drained after this and was glad to take the crazy rickshaw back to the hotel to get an early night and be ready for our 5:00 am boat ride the next morning to see the sunrise and celebrations on the river.

India is truly the most fascination and thought provoking place that I have ever been to. The filth and poverty chokes you. Everywhere is piles of cow dung and garbage. It is a maze of dark alleys yet adorned with the most beautiful temples to Vishnu, Shiva or Braham. You are continuously surrounded by hawkers selling their goods – even at 5:00 am.! We rowed along the river edge and saw lots of people bathing in the waters to cleanse their souls. Yesterday we met a gentleman, Professor Vir Bhadra Mishra, who enlightened us about the plight and environmental concerns of this great river, Ganges or the Goddess Ganga. He himself had contracted, Hepatitis and typhoid through using the water for ritual purposes – and he is extremely intelligent. There are 60,000 dips in the river daily and one extremely religious day every 12 years over 8 million people come to bathe. He is trying to raise money and awareness so the river can be cleaned and to prevent the pollution from dead bodies (ritual), industrial waste, garbage, and open sewers. They are also trying to educate children in schools. His parting quote was,
“Not the longest, nor the mightiest, but definitely the most spiritual river.” I could see that first hand this morning and I hope you enjoy the photos. I chose not to post the dead body photo but you can imagine how I felt to know that the family of this man could not even afford the common burning pyre and he was returned to his god by being thrown in the river. Just down from this, was a girl brushing her teeth in the same water and next to her were some boys who were washing towels and sheets and spreading them out on the steps of the ghats to dry. It reminds me of the Mekong and the boat people I saw in Vietnam and how they use their river also for all aspects of life.

We have 2 hours of rest now and then we are off to Sarnath, which has exquisite Bhuddhist stupas, temples and monasteries and is where Bhudda, the great sage, attained enlightenment (Bhudda-hood). Anew order of religious doctrine (Dhamma) and a new order of monks (Sangha) was laid.

We have an official dinner this evening complete with sitar and tabla music presentations.

Signing off for now………………………….

Friday, July 11, 2008

Varanasi




Varanasi – the world’s oldest (3500 years) cities on the banks of the River Ganges, is where we have traveled today. It is known as the home of culture and religion in the whole of India. It is also know as Kashi and Benares and is where the Rivers Varuna and Asi meet hence the name Varanasi. Devout Hindus make a pilgrimage to this city from all over the world. Tonight we saw a huge celebrtaion of death in the streets as it is thought to be ideal if one days or is buried in Veransi. Funeral pyres can be found along the banks of this great river. Along this river blocks of stairs have been built called ghats. This is where the pilgrims can bathe in the holy waters before they pray. Seeing as once can generally see dead animals, bodies, including babies (it is thought to be the perfect way so the baby can be reincarnated) in the water, we decided to give the bathing a miss! We did however go out o a row boat and watch Aarti, a Hindu celebration to the God of the river. It was quite the event as we say various ways of water and fire being used to honor the gods. We floated a basket of flowers and a lighted candle down the river to honor the god, too.

The journey to the Ghats was by pedal rickshaw and it was very hairy. We actually were involved in a number of fender benders as a cow blocked the road and the rickshaw I was in had to stop suddenly. This cumulative effect saw Mary being propelled in an unlady-like fashion onto the road. She is a great sport and it is something to tell the students☺

Varanasi is also famous for the Banaris Hindu University, and we were honored to have Professor MD.Toha discuss the Madarassa education system which is known as being the traditional seat of Islamic learning today.

We also lots of monkeys around the town. I hope you enjoy all the photos.

To end a perfect day, we were able to watch part of an Hindu wedding at our hotel and we were eve invited up to dance in the “moshpit” type dance with the groom as he awaited his wife’s arrival. I was the photographer☺ Finally our tour guide had his birthday today so we gave him a rendering of he Happy birthday song and enjoyed cake before we crashed out. Another fantastic day. Tomorrow we get to visit a primary school so I am very excited.

The best yet



The Taj Mahal, Little Taj and Agra Fort.

This is surreal! I cannot believe that I am actually here as it has been a dream of mine for so long. It is worth the 5 hour each way drive. One disappointment, however, was that Ella the Elephant , our Room 7 mascot, was refused entry and was housed in a locker for the entire visit. Security is tight. We thought we may not even get her back. Don’t worry, we did!

The Taj Mahal is more beautiful than you can even imagine. There is an air of elegance and true love as you meander in contemplating silence along the mirrored pools to the entrance of this tomb. How romantic is this story. For those of you who do not know it, it goes like this:

The Taj was completed in 1653 by the great Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan iafter the death of his 3rd wife, Queen Mumtaz, whom he loved very much. She bore him 14 children and his first son. He loved her very much. She had a dream that her last baby spoke to her from the womb and this was a sign that she would die soon. She asked her husband the emperor to promise three things. One, that he would not marry again. Two, that he would build a special memorable tomb for her. Third, that he would look after their children. He completed his promise. The result is the Taj Mahal. Taj means crown and Majal means palace. The thinking is that the Taj Mahal is the best of ALL palaces in the world. I certainly agree.

Next we visited Little Taj. Not as palatial as the Taj Mahal but still beautiful. We were told that the people from Agra were trying to get it recognized as a World Heritage Site. That would make three of them in Agra which would be a world record.

Finally we went to Agra Fort which was built by Emperor Akbar between 1565 and 1573, where his grandson, Shah Jahan, was imprisoned by his 3 rd son, Aurangzeb, who had aspirations of becoming emperor. (This was after he had killed his three older brothers to get them out of the way.) Shah Jahan had to look out of the window of his cell each day and see the Taj. He shed rivers of tears for the last 8 years of his life .


You can see that now Ella is a real Indian. Both she and Ally got their official “bindis.” Ella also caused a stir as people were asking to photograph her. I did have a job to get her back from the little girl in the red. I guess the people from the Taj realized she would steal the limelight if she were given entry.

Another 12 + hour day but very rewarding.

We are now returning to Delhi for the night and flying out to historic Veranace tomorrow for 4 days. It is a very holy place and it featured on the movie “Water.” We will finally get to see the River Ganges but I will not be bathing in it! More to come……. Don’t forget to leave me a comment or a question.

Thursday, July 10, 2008

Visit to the Taj Mahal, Agra




My report will follow tomorrow but enjoy the photos.

Life on the streets




Life on the streets
I realize that I have been so involved in discussing the incredible academic learning experiences that Fulbright and USEFI have supplied that I have not reported on the general observations that I have seen.

The auto rickshaws are incredible. The first one we piled into after negotiations for the charge gave me an experience that I have never had before and do not want again. The driver was smoking POT! Talk about second hand smoke. And he was on the wrong side of the road. No I do not mean the English/Indian side but the wrong side. After shrieks of hysteria from us all, he turned and smiled that glazed look, and gradually weaved through the traffic to his correct space. I thanked God that we survived.

I have to tell you that it did not deter us as we took one again last night but this time we piled four people into the Tuk Tuk. Seeing as I was the lightest, I got the position sitting on the knees of the other three. I felt like my head was about to pop out of the roof on one of the bumps just like in the Fred Flinstone cartoons.

Another great experience was when we went to buy some books to compliment our curriculum project. At the end of our purchase at the college bookstore, they closed the doors, put on air conditioning and invited us to sit and have coffee with them. Nescafe INSTANT coffee. This is the type of experience I love as we get to meet the real people of India.

Today we are going to Agra by bus. This is where we will visit the Taj Mahal. A five hour journey through many small towns an rural areas. The Commonwealth Games will be held here in 2010, and they are busy building a Metro to transfer the visitors. What strikes me is that this money that is being spent to accommodate foreigners could be used to help the people who day to day barely survive and live in poverty.

These people are so friendly, smiling and waving at us as we travel by in our huge comfortable coach. Children are on their way to school in their smart uniforms. However, in the same area are those children who are just sitting mindlessly poking sticks in piles of rubbish doomed to spend their day how their social status of life dictated from birth. The caste system here continues to amaze me.

We have just seen our first Indian snake charmer who performed very willingly for our bus. I hope you enjoy the photo.

I am no longer excited by the cows walking down the rmain road or grazing in the central reservation. I realize that is a common occurrence now. I look for new experiences as I travel along.

Signing off for now…………

Monday, July 7, 2008

Holy Cow

A selection of photos for your perusal


Off to Taj Mahal tomorrow and then leaving Delhi. Signing off for now.

Delhi Belly!



Delhi Belly!!

Oh dear it has happened so soon. Four of us got Delhi Belly and we have been so careful. Several more were starting the grumbles this evening. I suspect it was from the dinner in Old Delhi last night but at least I was able to make the day whereas the others took a taxi home.

It was worth it as I listened to a panel of 5 religious leaders who described Judaism, Hinduism, Catholicism, Sikhism, and B’hai and how they are practiced in India. It was interesting that while the ladies of our group asked “to the point” questions that certain members of our panel where not used to such assertive young ladies.


Finally, we got to watch some Indian classical dancers and musicians, the renowned Odissi dancers.

An interesting fact is that these young ladies centuries ago would never marry as they were married to Vishnu. However, they could have babies if they adopted them. Now that is not the case in contemporary India and you may even see young boys playing the part of these maidens although their form is more aggressive and jerky.

I will leave you with some photos. Enjoy.

My favorite lecture so far

Now it was back to academics with a lecture on the economics of India. Something I found interesting was that within the next 10 years, economists hope that the private sector will fund high school education and the government will focus on primary education and try to get this level up to speed with the rest of the world. This is part of the Universal Primary Education Plan.

Now what was definitely the BEST presentation of the visit so far was by an incredible gentleman, Professor Goswany, who critiqued art with us His voice and mannerisms were so soft and gentle that we could have listened to him all day. He recited poetry in Sanskrit and Hindi and it was like having story time with my favorite grandpa. Here are some awesome quotes about art that I will carry with me.

“Art is like a mistress who whispers in your ear, we have to tune our ears to listen carefully to what the art is saying to us.”

“The act of viewing is an act of energy and it is not a passive task.”

“The art of India is an art of silence as no one speaks about it and many pieces of art are not even signed.”

However, the best thing he said was “absolutely brilliant!” in an Indian English accent☺

Tombs and Towers



Today we got to do some cultural activities. We went to visit Humyan’s Tomb which is the first true example of Mughal architecture in India. It was built in 1565AD by his senior widow, Bega Begam. There are several other prestigious Mughals buried there but it now only houses lots of bats!

Next we traveled to Qutab Minar (Light of Islam)to observe its soaring 73 m high tower built in 1193. It is built in a beautiful red brick and sandstone and marble nearer the top. It was built by the first Muslim ruler in Delhi but he died before its completion.

Ella loved this site. Can you find her?

Old Delhi



You have to see the video of the streets to believe the noise. Yes, deafening as everyone honks the horn continuously. Dogs and beggars surround you especially young children who look at you with those longing eyes. We know, however, that if we give to one we will be mobbed. However, they are quiet mannered people and we never felt threatened. Everywhere we go people stop and stare. Some even take photos or just sit down to watch us more closely The pungent smells attack the senses and images of Tijuana flash into my mind.

We enter the Red Fort which is considered one of the finest pieces of architecture from the Mughal reign. It included a mosque and even a hareem for the first owner,Sha Jahan in 1638. The guide told us the gold and silver is now gone due to the British stripping it and removing precious diamonds (one holds prime position in the crown of the current queen of England) after independence from Britian was earned by India.

We went out to ear in small groups, mine being the vegetarian group and this caused quite a stir. People could not take their eyes of us as we entered the local restaurant and it continued until we left. I hope we get used to this. One local insisted that we visit Kashmere if we wanted to see the real India and he was most insistent. Not during this time of political unrest.

Finally. At nearly midnight we arrived at the hotel after being stuck in traffic which was stopped due to a long train crossing. No exercise as we had planned tonight as it is finish this blog then get some well earned zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz’s. I hope you are all enjoying the photos and video on this blog. See you soon.

Oh we are going to arrange a jolly good game of cricket against the math and science people and guess who will be umpire?

Namaste

Dabbling in Delhi

Exercise was the order of the day especially if you could see the food that is available. The staff are so helpful and courteous and they eep encouraging us to eat more. Yikes. Tread mill, weights and yoga and I am feeling ready for anything.

We started with a presentation on news media by the chairman of CMS. He was an incredible person with several MA and a PhD. The big message was in rural areas, TV is the most popular, newspapers were the most credible, but radio was the most reliable.

Next we visited the National Museum in the capable hands of our museum expert, Dr. Shobhita Punja who made our morning fly by with us not wanting it to end. We even saw the remains of Buddah in an ornate golden tomb. It was remarkable that it was just positioned in a room with many of his statues and not in an area where it should receive respect and honor.

Now our first solo dabble into Delhi began.

We returned for Chinese lunch at the hotel and then 3 of us took a tuck tuck into the local market. I now know the meaning of scarey and we decided to take a taxi back. I bought some shadow puppets of Rama and Sita, Ganesh and the monkey king ready for my students to role play the Ramayana which is one of the legends I am investigating for my curriculum.

Two hours later, we were back at the hotel, changed, refreshed (in all of 10 minutes) and continued the fast pace to Old Delhi to see the Red Fort and a “Son et luniere” (light show story of the end of British Rule at the fort in the open air.

Enjoy the photos and follow on with this story in my next blog. I took video but it takes too long to download.

Our First Day




The day broke as the cleaner greeted my room mate Mary and I with the words. “Good afternoon madam, may I clean your room?”

Good afternoon screamed I, Oh my goodness it is 12.10 pm and we have to shower, eat lunch and be ready to leave at 1:00 pm for Fulbright House, Deli and we hadn’t even opened a suitcase! Don’t worry, we made it.

The academics started straight away with two incredible presentations called Indian Educational System by Dr Janaki Rajan followed by Cultural History of India by Mr G C Joshi.


By 5.30 pm we were all struggling to keep awake so a lovely cuppa tea and a biscuit did the trick.

We were introduced to Mr Adam Grotsky, Executive Director of USEFI who told us the breaking news that India was to match the funds from Fulbright which would double the number of educators that could visit both countries to gain valuable insights to share.

Two more presentations followed before we had a ceremonial lamp lighting ceremony which was enjoyed by all. I was invited to present the first gift to our Delhi professors and then we went on to the lawn in a huge tent and had a wonderful dinner with teachers, Fulbright employees and many other invited guests. Networking was primetime and a good time was had by all.

I think we all slept better that night at least until 3:00 to 4:00 when jetlag hit.

CRZTCHR and Ella hit Delhi, India

CRZTCHR and Ella hit Delhi, India

The journey was long but passed without incident. The layover in Frankfurt was 5 hours and the plane was overbooked but we all made it.

We are staying at the Taj Mahal Hotel and you can enjoy the welcome pictures as I get my bindi, an Indian custom.

Getting Internet is time consuming and costly so my blogs may be a little late but will be typed and ready to go when I am able to connect.

It is 4.30 am and we are just getting to bed!!! Let us see what the next day brings.

CRZTCHR and Ella hit Delhi, India

Day 1 reception

Crztchr and Ella hit Delhi, India



Saturday, July 5, 2008

Garment workers in the Free Trade Areas in Sri Lanka


From the Frying Pan and into the Fire by Sandya Hewamanne.

 

Continuing our theme of Sri Lanka, we learned that Professor Hewamanne had spent nearly a year in a labor intense garment sweatshop just outside of Colombo. The area was a “free zone” meaning it did not have to conform to the labor zones of the country.  She worked a 10- 15 hour day, earning only $2 per day and lived in a crowded guesthouse along side the other female garment workers.  They had to step over their beds to get out of the room which was little more than a closet!

 

I had many questions:

 

Who were these girls?

 

·      Unmarried women aged 17 – 23 from the rural areas

·      Were willing to work for a pittance – men would demand more!

·      Maybe saving for a dowry or education or just to send money home

·      Will take any physical or verbal abuse handed out by the bosses

·      Usually educated to at least high school level but some falsify records

·      Some have a degree and cannot get a job

·      Had to be prepared to be treated differently by men in the free zone and people from their villages because their work decisions did not conform to what a “nice girl” would do.  These jobs produced a stigma as  girls are usually protected by their father or brothers to keep them safe for their potential husband.

 

So did they really fall from the frying pan to the fire?

 

I am excited that we will visit this garment factory when we arrive in Sri Lanka in August and I will be able to do some first hand interviews and observations.

 

In the words of Dorinne Kondo 1997 describing the lives of these woman.

“The world of aesthetics is a site of struggle and a space where identities are created.”

Next we had a lecture entitled  Islam in South Asia by Akbar Hyder.

Did you know:

·      1.4 Muslims live in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh individually more than any other country in the Muslim world.

·      Islam started in Mecca and Medina in 622CE and was spread by migrant workers, merchants, mystics and warriors.

·      Islam means “Submission to the will of God.”

·      There are multiple modes of Islam just like in Christianity.

Later came a  lecture about the Taj Mahal by Janice Leoshko.  More to come when I visit with Ella the Elephant.

 

Lastly was a lecture on the Ramayana, one of the greatest epics from India (along with the Mahabharata) which was presented by Ian Woolsford and is told orally, in dance, music or art.  It was recorded in the original Sanskrit and is known by every child in the Hindu world from a very young age.  This will be a large part of my curriculum as I compare legends from India with ones from our own Native Americans. I intend to use this story of Rama and Sita to find out more about the culture of India and their gods.

Fun fact:

·      A TV version is shown here in India and also a cartoon comic.  When the show is on, India practically stops what it is doing as it is so popular.

 

Well folks, the day has arrived and I must pack to start my travels with Ella in India.  Fulbright have prepared us well in Austin and will continue to do so when we start our visit.